A Weekend Trip to Sehlabathebe
by Paul Naudé
Having watched a YouTube video by Western King on Sehlabathebe (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juFjxnGtWUo) I decided this was a place to see and so roped in my brother to accompany me to help push the car if it came to that.
We left around midday expecting to make good time in my Jimny but the dirt roads in places are not great. The pass up to the SA border post at Ramatsediso’s gate is steep in places but the previously loose and difficult sections have been concreted. The SA border post is clean, efficient and a pleasure to use. The Lesotho side was, well, it was Lesotho. We did not need to pay entrance or vehicle fees but they were keen to look inside a Spar packet in which resided a few things my brother had bought in Underberg. Seeing nothing worthwhile (it was my brother after all) they sent us on our way.
We arrived at the very fancy visitor centre at Sehlabathebe which was open but deserted. We used the facilities, providing our own loo roll and I then went walkabout to find someone to get us registered. Once found the locals were very pleasant and helpful and a joy to interact with. We were given a handwritten note to allow us access at the main gate. However, the gate staff was nowhere to be seen so we let ourselves in and headed to the camping area. Fortunately I had researched the area, traveled it on Google Earth Streetview and so knew where to go. Garmin and Tracks4Africa were also a big help.
We set up camp and I took a walk down to the nearest stream a couple of hundred meters away to get washing water and lugged the containers back to find we were camped about 25 meters from a small dam. Damn!
There was little time to look around as the sherry was calling and the sun was setting. We had a light meal and slipped into our sleeping bags.
My alarm went off at the pre-set 3.45am and we both slept through it. Fortunately my internal alarm roused me at about 4.10am and I dressed, grabbed my pre-packed pack, grabbed Stanley the coffee flask filled the night before and headed off into the darkness having just a vague idea of where I was going and hoping not to meet the jackals we had heard all night,
I had a very old, basic GPS with me in which I had put the coordinates of a spot I thought would be great for a sunrise shoot after consulting Google Earth. Having arrived there I set up my camera, took time to have some coffee and scout around a bit. Eventually getting the sunrise photo I toured the Sehlabathebe rockeries and plains.
What a beautiful and interesting place! There was nobody else to be seen the whole day I was there. It was magical. If you are into landscapes this is the place to go. It was exceptionally dry with most tarns being empty, but at least the marshy areas were accessible. A juvenile bearded vulture came really close and assessed my bones but having a 16-35mm lens on my camera it would have looked like a fly if photographed.
Baboon rock (my name for it).
The camping area with Jonathon’s Lodge in the background. This is where King Jonathan used to spend his relaxation time and is being turned into a visitor centre / museum. The tent and my sleeping brother are hidden behind the trees in the foreground.
Sehlabathebe can be fairly easily accessed from Bushman’s neck after a couple of hours hiking. It is far further to drive but worth it if you wish to stay a few days. One can stay at the self-catering lodge close to the entrance but there is a 45minute drive to the camping / parking area. To get sunrise photographs of the Devil’s Knuckles it is more convenient to camp. There are caves, such as Tarn Cave which can be booked through KZN Wildlife where one can overnight.
The Devil’s Knuckles seen from one of the many caves in the area. This one has no roof and is aptly named Irish Cave.
One really needs to spend a week here, exploring the many attractions the area offers including San paintings which are easily accessible. It appears there are plans to attract many more visitors and I suggest you get there before it is spoiled by crowds. A 4×4 vehicle is not required, just ensure you car is not too low to the ground. Most cars could make the trip. From Hilton it took us about 5 hours driving. There are NO facilities at the camping area. It seems to be perfectly safe and the locals are very friendly. Cell reception is about a 35 minute walk away (one walks into SA!) Booking is a tenuous affair, but speak to Molly at 26663026594. Cost for camping is R100 pppn. Contact me for any further info.